Wonderlust in Istanbul

Istanbul really gave my wanderlust a shot in the arm. Physically, I was getting well, but I was moving past the side of the world that was comfortable to me. You see, I was somewhat familiar with western Europe because I had been there before, and it probably resembles the US more than any other region in the world, but Turkey, I knew very little about. As soon as I arrived I got this giddy, night before christmas feeling. Where I was so anxious for what was about to happen. I was overloaded with new sights, smells, and sounds, and I was instantly out of my confront zone. One second you think you know, the next you learn that you know nothing. That's the good stuff! That's what keeps me wanting to see more. 

Constantinople, Istanbul, the Ottoman Empire. The bridge between east and west. Whatever you want to call it, this place is filled with history. There's so many different types of cultures, food (there's like a hundred different ways to grill meat), religions, and many different opinions on how progressive or conservative the country should be. All have left a mark on this wonderful city. 

Right after this small tunnel... 

While I was walking to the ferry one evening a man started to follow me. He knew I wasn't from around here. I didn't feel threatened and I could tell he was more curious than anything else. We just had a quick conversation, but one thing that stuck in my mind was he said about people of different origins living in other countries, immigration for short. 

"No place is pure. Everyone is from somewhere else. Now more than ever we have to accept that."

-Kurdish / Frenchman

The packed neighborhood of Beyoglu. 

Antique trinquets left over from hundreds of years of bartering in the Grand Bazaar 

Taksim Square. The heart of Istanbul. This is the site of many demonstrations, including the 2013 Gezi Park protests. 

Window. Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) Museum / Church

Istanbul - Getting Well In Üsküdar

I was really looking forward to being in Istanbul to recover from the last few weeks of hitting the road hard. I was beyond grateful that my cousin Erich, and his wife Betul, came through with a free place to stay in Üsküdar. It was a place I called home for the next 19 days. 

The first week my main priority was getting healthy, so as much as I wanted to go exploring in the city of two continents and over 20 million people, by far the largest city I've been to, I had to pace myself. 

I needed to get better if I was going to continue to travel. I knew from my time on my bike that small issues can quickly become larger ones that ultimately stop you in your tracks completely, so I went to a local physician who prescribed me antibiotics to help kill my sinus infection. As much as I was worried about how a doctor's visit would be in a foreign country, it was all very simple. I gave cash (299 TL = $100), they gave me treatment. I have travelers insurance but I have to file a claim in order to be reimbursed (dough! which reminds me I still have to do). My antibiotics eventually ended up working, I'll though I still have a little fluid build up in my right ear. Hopefully it goes away soon. 

While on the mend I decided, if I couldn't tour the entire city I would at least get to know my neighborhood (Üsküdar). Üsküdar lies on the Asian side of Istanbul, which is by far the more conservative side, specifically in Üsküdar. A couple examples are there are very little bars and the vast majority of women are wearing the headscarfs. Although I probably favored the European side for all the historical sites and energy, I loved coming back to Üsküdar where I felt less stressed by all the people and was much more at home. 

While during my stay I was pleased to hear the NY times just wrote an article on the Asian side. Here it is in case you'd like to read the article, click here.

Walking into Üsküdar center. It took me about 20 mins to get from my apartment to the ferries. 

Ferry ride on the Bosphorus from Üsküdar to Eminönü. The ferries are one of many ways to get around this large city. Others include: marmaray (under ground metro Asia/Europe), metro, light rail, metro bus, bus, dolmus, taxi. 

Mykonos, Santorini

Eat, Sleep, Party, Repeat. Then end up sick... That's what happened to me. Here's some pics (PG version). 

Venice airport. Little did I know that my bag would never show up in Athens. I finally had my bag delivered three days later in Mykonos. 

Mykonos cruise ship. There are plenty of these guys but I can't blame them, the view is pretty ridiculous.  

Santorini church. 

The Aegean sea. As I gazed over its grandeur, you could see how the rulers of the Greek, Ottoman, and Roman empires might have felt. 

Much love for this kid who took care of me while in Mykonos. Thanks, bro.  

Tourism - Milan, Cinque Terre, Venice

Milan, Cinque Terra, and Venice. All cities/towns in Italy, world renown as a tourist hot spot. You can understand why as soon as you're in Italy. The food, the art, the history, the amore, it has it all. And Italy is one of the country's who everyone thinks is "cool" on a world stage.

Traveling, along with everyone else, to all these unbelievable destinations has made me reflect on if, tourism, to major destinations, is sustainable. Personally I think it's already impacted my experience to these places. The problem is the culture of a place takes on the personality of its tourist, not its locals. To be clear, I had a wonderful time in Italy. I enjoyed every minute of it, but I wonder if it can withstand the volume of people and still keep its charm? I feel like this could be a reoccurring theme as I move on. We'll see...

Dumo di Milano. One of the most magnificent cathedrals I've ever seen, and there's a bunch of good ones in Europe.  

Lake Como. No Clooney sighting, however, Jordan and I ran into a guy who said "George" and De Niro were throwing a party a couple days after we were leaving. 

According to a reliable source (the Italian Job), the two granite columns behind me in Piazzetta di San Marco, is where the venetians use to hang the bad guys. 

Jordan, looking cool in Venice. 

Vernazza at night. This is one of the 5 (cinque) villages in Cinque Terre and where Jordan and I stayed. 

The weather report on the way from Vernazza to Corniglia. 

Pictures and faces of the flood that hit Vernazza in 2011. 

Just another boat ride to the airport. Only in Venice. 

Switzerland & Italy (Jordan's Visit)

You blink and all of a sudden a month and four countries pass without an update. A lot has happened in the last 30 days. My bother came and visited, met a good friend in Mykonos, caught a pretty bad sinus infection (still not 100%), and my allowed time in Europe (90 days) passed. 

Currently in Istanbul, but to catch up quickly I've posted a few videos from my brother's visit. 

Berlin 2 of 2

For me, Berlin is a hard city to fall in love with immediately. When you fist enter the city, the way I did from west to east, you're greeted by its history. The Berlin Victory Column, Soviet War Memorial (Tiergarten), Brandenburg Gate, and next to that is the Berlin wall, or what's left of it. Monuments to war, peace, and change. Tough images to wrap your head around.  

Then there's the graffiti, some of which is the most amazing street art you'd ever see. It could be in the Louvre somewhere. Other ink covers the city like out dated tattoos. The artist don't discriminate on their canvas. Monuments, store fronts, and of course the wall.  

Berliners seem to express themselves and don't care what you think. I think it's b/c of their history. Don't tell them they can't b/c they will. The city has a history of repression, expression, and change.  

I get the sense that the people of Berlin are now fairly comfortable with their quality of life. A city of rebellion is now a city of tourism and party goers. The biggest controversial issue that I came across was the genterfercation of certain areas. According to some locals, you're no longer able to pick the area you want to live in, your economic class does that for you. I think they were referring to squatters. After the wall fell, a lot of Berliners just took over uninhabited buildings, fixed them up and made them cool. 

By the end of my 5 day stay in Friedrichshain (E. Berlin). I came to gain a huge respect for the bluntness that people showed, even if that bluntness was expressed by doing what ever the person wanted to do. I appreciate that people act the way they want. At times I wish I was more like a Berliner. 

Berlin Victory Column

Soviet War Memorial 

Brandenburg Gate

Berlin Wall (east view)

Berlin Wall (west view)

Friedrichshain art district.

Tempelhofer Feld. 

Berlin was built on a swamp so they have to remove the sewage and waste through these above ground pipes.  

Berlin 1 of 2 (Bike Gift)

Priority numero was finding the one person, in a city of over 3.5 million and the second largest city in Europe, to gift my bike to.

I made reservations at my Airbnb for an additional 2 days (total of 5) to ensure I found someone before I left. I had a little anxiety before I arrived, not sure how I was going to give Ms. Jamis away. 

I hit the streets immediately the day after arrival. Introducing myself to bike shop after bike shop telling my story. Although I stopped by ten or so bike shops, I had one in mind, Ci Cli Berlinetta. After doing some research online this was "the" shop in Berlin. More curated museum and lifestyle brand than anything else. It didn't disappoint. So cool inside. 

I was fortunate to talk to Alasdair, an ex bike messenger, professional web designer, and friend to the shop. He helped me out in a major way by plugging a link to my site on Ci Cli's blog and FB page. I'm forever grateful, Alasdair! 

I was pretty amazed by the response rate. I wasn't really expecting to get anyone to contact me and had made plans to give my bike to bikesurf.org. A bike sharing website that allows you to rent a bike for super cheap. However, 48 hours later I received twelve responses. All of which were deserving of Ms. Jamis. 

I ended up picking Chris. An ex bike messenger, traveler, cheese aficionado, and family man. He was so welcoming. Even invited me to dinner with his girlfriend Teresa, a couple friends from Berlin, and couple from Brooklyn who visits them every year. 

I rushed to get over to his place by dinner time (8ish), coming from Friedrichshain (east Berlin) to Friedenau (southwest Berlin) is about an hour ride and the contrast between the neighborhoods couldn't be more different. Think city to the burbs. 

Dinner and the company were amazing, but now it was time to gift away the bike. After a few beers, wine, and cheese of course, I tried to explain to Chris all the little imperfections and how the bike handled in certain situations. All this while my cab was outside waiting to take me back to my apartment, and then to the train station to catch my midnight train to Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland. It was a little... a lot more rushed than I would have liked, but I had to roll with it. My bike tour was over and the next chapter of my trip was just starting. One final look back at Ms. Jamis and I was off. 

Ci Cli Berlinetta frames 1 of 2

Ci Cli Berlinetta frames 2 of 2

Le tour. Armstrong, Ullrich, Leipheimer, and Basso (from front to back). Arguably the best cyclists of my generation. 

Vintage cycling gear.  

My new buddy, Chris. 

Chris, the new owner of Ms. Jamis. 

Chris already putting in work, sliming her down. For now she will be used as a commuter bike.  

Train ride to Switzerland. Miserable.